Beho Beho Bushblog – Tricia – 23rd June

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Finally off the Market

 

While the rains were falling on Kipalala Hill on the 8th April, Phil and I shared the happiest day of our lives basking in sunny Wales. Yes, you read that right.

 

Normally we spend our long leave hopping from one town to the next during our annual visits. But this year, we were spoilt to have our loved ones come to us for a glorious weekend at Caer Llan in Monmothshire. Our family and friends travelled from Chicago, San Francisco, Seattle, and Tampa in the US; from Hoedspruit in RSA; and from London, Glasgow, Farringdon, Southampton and Bristol in the UK.

 

After a lot of contemplation, Phil and I chose ‘our journey’ together as our wedding theme. With 8 places that had been pivotal moments leading up to our commitment to each other, each table bore the name on a pennant flag with photos from our time there. Each guest’s nameplate had a story from the 8 places so that our guests – who may only know us from one part of our lives – could share in the other stories. Although many tables had people from different stages of our lives, they could all share in the threads of our history together.

 

We decorated the rooms with bunting my mom made and old photos hung between the windows – documenting our lives and honouring those who couldn’t join us. Friday evening was spent introducing the two sides of our families and friends, telling stories, singing songs around the piano, and finishing the little details for the next day.

 

We tried to weave our life in Africa through various aspects of the wedding with Tanzanian fabrics and safari animals added to the Groomsmen buttonholes, and my mother’s corsage.

 

The morning light played on the misty Valley of Usk, as my make-up artist, Alex, arrived at 7:30am to make us photo ready for the day. By 8am we were breakfasting with our weekend guests, and by 9 Lisa had arrived to style our hair. Before I knew it the clock showed 12:30pm. Within 30 minutes our groomsmen were followed by our parents, step-parents and Grandma Jean, processing down the aisle to A Song of Ice and Fire – for all the Game of Thrones fans out there. Shirley and Dan, thanks for convincing us to find a space for it!

 

Our dear friend Nick officiated the ceremony for us finely balancing the reflective tones and communal spirit of a wedding with our quirky personalities. And after committing to my ‘trusted minion’, we recessed from the ceremony to Hopipolla – often heard at the end of the BBC wildlife documentaries.

 

The speeches were perfect. A tear-jerking reflection from my papa, words of gratitude and love from Phil, and a Best Man’s speech from Keir generously dabbled with humorous anecdotes from the past and hopeful insights for the future.

 

Having given up on any sort of formal dance lessons – not many dance instructors came to visit last year – we joked and avoided each other’s toes while lovingly swaying to Ellie Goulding’s ‘How Long Will I Love You’ before inviting everyone up with the Waterboys original.

 

The entire weekend perfectly encapsulated who we are individually and to each other. And although our Beho Beho family couldn’t join us in person, they made an integral cameo in our celebrations. Thank you to our Beho Beho family and to all of our guests who shared in this journey.

 

** All pictures courtesy of Clare Adams – LoveSeen Photography

 

 

 

 

 

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Beho Beho Bushmail – Start of Season 2017/18

The blessing of rain has transformed the plains and hills around Beho Beho; lush verdant grasses, with a scattering of wildflowers and fungi, extend as far as the eye can see. We returned in May to periodic showers and an audibly flowing Msine River. Day by day our skies turn bluer and the sun warms the earth, as vultures soar amidst the thermals. As the moon rises, nostalgia sets in staring out onto the Southern Cross, the constellation, and now a familiar friend, which always greets our return to Beho Beho and welcomes our guests to the beginning of a new season. Our nights would not be complete without the laughter of hippos and roar of mighty lions, as elephants feed on grasses and snap small branches during their night-time wanderings.

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As we started to open camp, we were greeted by some familiar faces – Fred has appeared outside of our houses and the Gardener has started to catch up on his pruning work. After these rains he has quite a lot of work to do!

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As usually happens, drives down to the airstrip or (Phone) Signal Hill surprised lions who – over our two closed months – forgot that humans frequent this area. Further inspection, revealed tracks of cubs alongside those of adult lions. One afternoon as Idrissa returned with weekly supplies from Kisaki, we got the call that wild dogs were coming to camp – quite literally walking up the road from the airstrip to our car park. And though we have good sightings of wild dogs, the unpredictability of how long it might be before seeing them again can still break up afternoon work to sit with them for a while, waiting for the moment when they rouse to greet one another in their usual evening ritual.

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In a rare and special sighting, Phil and Roel spotted two crowned eagles circling the area in front of camp. We rarely see crowned eagles in camp, and even less frequently up close, but that afternoon one swooped in, perching on the dead tree near the water hole. To their delight, a pair of these stunning eagles were seen again landing in a tree near banda 3. We’re hoping it’s the start of many more special bird sightings this season.

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As we wrap up our second week of the new season, we are grateful to have already made some remarkable new memories with our guests. Taking in stunning sunrises with a cup of coffee; driving out towards the airstrip to find seated giraffes rising in the morning light accompanied by plenty of zebra; elephants drinking from the waterhole soaked in moonlight.

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It’s no wonder that June has long been a favourite month of ours. The time we get to re-explore an unspoilt Selous, soaking in the beauty all around and anticipating all of the new adventures that lie ahead! We look forward to welcoming our new – and quite a few returning – guests and sharing in the Beho Beho delights of the new season!

 

Wishing you a pleasant safari, where ever you may be!

 

Until the next time,

 

Phil, Tricia, Roel, Nico, Godlisten, Saning’o, Idrissa,

and the entire Beho Beho family

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Beho Beho Bushblog – Roel – 20th June

roelblog  Beho Beho game activities are in full swing with the first guests of the season and we have gotten off to a great start. In the first week of the season we have had great sightings of Lions mating, Wild Dogs, several herds of Elephants, really muddy Buffalo and, to top it all off, the Black Panther Pride and their eight cubs are still around.

Opposite of the previous season, we have had fairly heavy rains till the end of May. This means that the bush is still looking extremely lush and water is plentiful out there. But as the sun is doing its magic the bush is slowly drying out, the grasses especially are done with producing their seeds and are starting to go yellow.

The other morning we found a pack of Wild Dogs lying out in the open on The Battlefields, this struck me as kind of odd as in the early morning they are usually quite active. As we approached the situation became a bit clearer. The pack was surrounded by about 7 Spotted Hyena also lazily resting in the morning sun. It seemed like the Dogs were unwilling to go and hunt with such a large group of Hyenas in tow as the Hyenas, being more powerful, would surely steal any kill away from the Dogs. As time passed the Hyenas lost their interest and started to move off one by one. When the last Hyena had moved away the Dogs sprang into action and we were surrounded by the pack as they went through their greeting rituals. Not too long after the whole pack moved off into the bush, perhaps hoping to make a kill before it got too warm.

I should also not forget the birds. We have had a great variety of species come through already, with some specials like Crowned Eagle, Zanzibar Red Bishop, Eurasian Buzzard, Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture and Racket Tailed Rollers to name but a few. For one of our guests we have already positively identified 79 different bird species and we are confident we can push that to over a hundred during their stay.

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Beho Beho Bushmail – End of Season 2016/17

Another season draws to a close and we are able to revisit the events of the year to get the bigger picture of life in the Selous for its myriad inhabitants.

 

The season has, for us witnessing events, provided some ongoing stories, punctuated by spates of sightings of particular species.

 

The season started with a very welcome spate of leopard sightings, normally particularly elusive in Selous. The first 3 weeks saw more than a dozen sightings which included leopardess successfully hunting a scrub hare, leopardess and her cub on a few occasions, and stalking prey through the Msine dry riverbed. 3 sightings of 3 different males either nonchalantly walking by us or draped over the branches of a sausage tree completed a great start for the predators!

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The story of the lion prides provided us with a season long mystery and the saga is anything but clear still. Bibi’s pride, our resident pride of the Beho Beho area was spotted twice at the beginning of the season, never to be seen again! Likewise with the 2 musketeers, our 2 dominant pride males, disappearing in July and we have not seen them since. Whether they have fought and been killed by other lions or simply pushed out is unclear, but the mystery remains as to who is going to stamp their authority on our prime territorial area here. The Black panther pride would have been the favourites, but have not done so. The elusive lions of the Phantom pride have been in and out of the area frequently from their usual base in the north, but seem reluctant to stay. And who will take over as pride male in the area is yet to be seen. Apart from seeing some relatively young male lions, on and off over the course of the season, there seems to be no clear candidate up to the job. We shall have to wait and see what the new season brings to find out.

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As the dry season drew on, we were treated to a period of a couple of weeks with the wild dogs taking centre stage! Using our Msine valley as their hunting ground they came through in a whirlwind of excitement, disrupting the lives of our resident impala herds especially and showing the hyena clans who’s boss! Numerous instances of us trying to follow their frenetically paced hunts took place and sometimes we would get to see the whole hunt and the subsequent fight for the spoils.

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The dry season went on and on – October no rain, November and December (the short rains) nothing but drought. And it took its toll on the animals. Impala lambing season this year, a bit of a failure. Ewes did not have the valuable nutrients available to them for good milk production and so lots of weak lambs became easy prey. The same for the warthog. The herds of buffalo descended daily to the only water available in the area directly in front camp and as the drought continued they were the most visible to be losing condition and the hyenas noticed! Usually an adult buffalo is too big for hyena to take down, but not in times of drought. The hyena started taking down buffalo every couple of days, camping out at the buffalos favoured drinking point and plucking of the weakened animals fairly easily.

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The hippos did not escape the crisis either with every week or so a new hippo carcass being found succumbing to malnourishment and fights with other hippos under similar stress and strain. This continued all the way until late January/early February when at long last some good rains brought some fresh vegetation and much needed relief to the struggling herbivores of Selous.

 

During all of this a very important event occurred: the centenary of the death of Captain F.C Selous on the 4th January 1917. A great man to be remembered for his achievements and for his part of the history of Tanzania and the making of what it is today.

 

As we wrap up the season and prepare to go home, we should of course give an update on the friends of Beho Beho as most guests always wonder how they are:

Tina Turner – our funky-haired airstrip warthog – is doing fine after successfully avoiding attention from the wild dogs recently.

Fred – our bushbuck – is as always in and around camp, in good condition and drinking all the water from the bird baths as usual. Our two favourite bull elephants are still visiting regularly; Titan ruling the roost as usual and the Gardener living up to his name pruning camps’ trees and grasses.

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We would like to thank all of our guests this season for sharing in our experiences; we hope to see you again here in the wild heart of Africa.

 

All our best wishes and see you in the new season!

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Phil, Tricia, Roel, Nico, Godlisten, Saning’o, Idrissa and the whole Beho Beho family.

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Beho Beho Bushblog – Roel – 23 February

roelblogEven though we had given up on them, the rains have arrived (better late than never). So finally the trees are starting to grow a more vibrant green and are flowering, the grasses are regenerating and the herbivores do not have to travel long distances between food and water-sources anymore. The large carnivores however will have to work just a bit harder for their meals as they cannot lie around the sparse water sources anymore and wait for their prey to come to them.

The weird thing is the amount of dead and dying hippos that are being found all over the place just after the so-called life giving rain. This is a result of what is called the Re-feeding Syndrome. This basically means that in times of prolonged low calorie intake the body changes the way it functions and starts utilizing fatty acids and amino acids as fuel in place of carbohydrates. This is actually just a small part of what happens but I do not want to go into the full medical details of it all as that is way too complex. When food becomes available again and the hippos can feed on nutritious grasses the changes in the internal workings of the body can be detrimental to the animal and in the worse case lead to death due to stresses on the cardio-vascular system. So they over-eat after the dry season and that can be very detrimental to the weakest individuals in the population, with this season having a prolonged dry season the number of stressed individuals was very high and so the amount of carcasses we find is quite large.

But for the most part these are the good times for the herbivores and they are quickly replenishing their fat-reserves in time for the mating seasons that are just around the corner. We can already see the changes in their behaviour as the males are becoming more and more territorial and aggressive towards other males. This is easiest to see in the herds of Impala where almost any disturbance will cause the males to start displaying and where the bachelor herds are not allowed to intermingle with the females anymore.

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Beho Beho Bushblog – Saningo – 21 February

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We have been witnessing an extended dry season tormenting some of the games for the absence of water and grass to feed on. Although for some animals, mainly predators, this seems to be a good thing to have a good dry season, as they can simply roam around the few permanent water courses, like springs, lakes and rivers, knowing their potential prey has to come to them.

Predators like lions and hyenas seem to have been waiting at the water courses for their prey to come anddrink water so they can hunt easily. One of the sightings I have had was when I just arrived from home after my leave and with our operations director Alwyn whom was visiting from Dar. We landed at one of the airstrips bit far from the camp, so we had a nice little drive back towards the camp and as we were passing lake Tagalala we saw a pride of lions under the bushes. Driving a few meters forward we saw another lioness trying to hunt buffaloes. As we realized what we had encountered, the buffaloes got spooked and ran away, this was the opportunity the lioness had been waiting for, a chance to pick out one to catch in the confusion, everything started happening, but it was in the dense bush and we could barely see through to them, but in all the stampeding and confusion they ended up running right into the open where we could see that a lioness had caught hold of one. It was quite a battle as the buffalo would not fall down and the lioness was still clinging on the back side trying to drag it down or lodge her teeth into its spinal cord. At some stage lioness released the buffalo and started chasing it toward the rest of the pride, we saw a few more lions coming to join including one I am call a “super hunter” for the pride. Unfortunately they finally ended up back in the thick bush and we couldn’t see anything, just hear a huge battle and it seems that the buffalo was pulled down and killed there.

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While all that was happening over at Tagalala side, our local hyena clan was busy raiding the Msine spring right in front of the camp. Every night we’ve been hearing some buffalo stampedes and hyenas cackling and from the noises it was clear the hyenas were busy hunting. At that time the buffalo and other general game were so skinny and weak, they became easy prey for the hyena’s lurking at the spring. That dry period was a huge starvation time for the general games. The good news is at long last we have had some few huge rains, it has made a lot of the vegetation green up and some few water puddles appear all over the plains areas and add some water to some seasonal rivers. So now that is allowing the general game to thrive and they seem happier now as we see them fighting and playing with each other, impalas leaping all over the plains and chasing each other, elephants taking enjoyable mud baths as mud wallows start to appear. The weather also is not too hot and humid as would normally be the case in this season; it is sort of less humid which is so good for us too. After the start of the rains the wild dogs also popped out once, to make an appearance, it was a great morning when we saw this pack of wild dogs at the Beho Beho airstrip.

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Beho Beho Bushblog – Godlisten – 25th January

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Lake Manze is almost completely dried out now, but it is still a good area for game drives! My last drive there was very interesting and we had a lovely time, because it was like watching a movie. This movie was about two young Lion and cow Buffalo.

 

Our first sighting was Two Lions with a baby Warthog {piglet}. We heard the baboons making a lot of noise and running away very quickly, my first thought was predator although I couldn’t tell if it Lion or Leopard. We decided to drive closer to see what was going on, we found out it was a Lion who had caught a little piglet, it was very small, I may say it was something like one week old. It was interesting to watch the Lion try to figure out how to eat it, but finally he manage it.

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But the piglet was just a snack to that King of the jungle, so the lions decided to move close to the water and wait for more of their mobile food, which would be coming down to drink. The first one to show up was Elephant but it was too big for only two Lions, second one was a Wildebeest followed by Zebra but they didn’t reach the water, then a small heard of Buffalo came to drink, and that is where the show started.

 

The Lions waited until the Buffalo reached the water and they were now very close to each other. The Lions stood up and start to chase them, unfortunately one of the cow Buffalo got stuck in the thick mud and because the young Lions were not that experienced in hunting they ended up just looking each other, it took about five to ten minutes for the Buffalo to get out of the thick mud and only then did the two species, predator and prey start to chase each other, first the Buffalo chased the Lions for a few meters before the Lions turned around and chased the Buffalo back, this continued until one of the buffalo’s charges was a serious one and the Lions were forced to climb into a dead tree. This gave a chance for the Buffalo to run away and join the rest of the herd, most of the time it does happen that the Buffalo protect each other or rescue one of their members from a difficult situation, but this time it was different, the cow Buffalo was forced to fight for her life and the herd was just watching, even a Hippo joined us to enjoy the show but not give help.

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Elsewhere on Lake Manze it is like party time for the Pelicans, after water level drops it makes fishing easy for them.

On the other side, at Lake Tagalala the water level is still good which makes this a perfect place for the Hippo to stick to at this time of the year until rain comes, though some of the Hippo’s have lost their life and this has happened because there is not enough food for them and also due to fighting, especially between the bulls.

 

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